Deep Clean Your Siphon Feed Airbrush

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Why should you deep clean your siphon feed airbrush?

It's just like sending your airbrush off for a factory overhaul.
It's easy. Well, maybe not the first time through.
Deep cleaning your airbrush is far faster than sending it back to the factory--unless, of course, you're right next door...
When other cleaning methods fail to resolve a problem, a deep cleaning is the next, and usually the last troubleshooting step.

This particular guide applies to these airbrush models.

Iwata

HP-BCS

If you manufacture or import airbrushes and think your brand and model should be included in this list, please contact me.

The Guru's Tips for Your First Time Through This Guide

Set aside an hour.
A good, thorough, deep cleaning might only last five minutes if you know what you're doing. But this is your first time through. There's new terminology, it might be your first time taking the airbrush apart, for whatever reasons, set aside the time. It will probably take far less to finish but that's okay because...
Take your time.
The first time through this guide you might get a little confused. It's okay. Figure out what's going on and keep on moving, because you'll also need to...
Be Thorough
By, "Be Thorough" I mean be an obsessive compulsive clean freak. People who are a touch OC do airbrush maintenance very well. ;)

I tell people to clean their airbrushes a second and even a third time because I understand the difference between what most people think a clean airbrush is and what a clean airbrush really is.

It took me three hours and 4 "do-overs" to get my first airbrush clean. Kirk and Gary wanted me to know what a clean airbrush really is.
Frustration Happens

Get up. Walk away. Go do something else. Bad Things happen to airbrushes when you're frustrated. Trust me, I still get frustrated. As soon as I realize it I go take a break.

Come back with a fresh mind and attitude. Don't worry, you'll get it, but if not...
Call Up Tech Support
Airbrush importers and manufacturers want you to succeed. Most of them have technical support lines to help you work through whatever problem you're facing.

Needles are Sharp!
They hurt going in and if they hit bone they hurt even more coming back out--don't ask me how I know that...

That means...

If the needle drops to the floor DON'T CATCH IT WITH YOUR HANDS OR LEGS! You can learn the lesson from my warning or by finding out for yourself...
Nozzles are Delicate
Be gentle. After cleaning, the second most common airbrush problem is nozzle damage. The most likely time to damage that nozzle--is now.
Only Clean Places Paint Goes
Bottles, cups, the outside, and the paint passage are all you need to worry about without a specific reason. Cleaning out other areas, like the trigger housing or the air valve can result in a few unexpected problems.

Towel or tray to work over
Appropriate cleaning solution
Round wooden toothpicks

Bamboo toothpicks don't seem to break as often
A bristled cleaning brush...

Interdental brushes, or airbrush cleaning brushes (you'll need the small ones), or pipe cleaners (not recommended)
The wrench that came with the airbrush
Cotton swabs for general cleaning

Note: Cotton swabs do occasionally shed their fibers, if it does just make sure you pick them out
Mirror or mirror-like surface

Old AOL CDs are my favorite "mirror-like surface" but if you're cleaning with a solvent CDs won't last long. In that case use part of a glass mirror.
(Optional) magnifying glass or jeweler's loupe

Unscrew the handle
Unscrew the needle chucking nut
Pull out the needle
Clean the needle with a cotton swab

Warning: Needles are still sharp!
Unscrew the needle cap
Unscrew the nozzle cap
Unscrew the head cap, use the crescent wrench if necessary
The nozzle should fall out.

If it doesn't simply try removing it with your fingers.

If it's stuck to the airbrush body use your thumb to push it off to one side.
If it's stuck inside the head cap, use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull it out. Try not to scratch up or gouge the nozzle.

Nozzles are delicate, they break easily

Clean the nozzle with a toothpick

This is the important piece, make extra special certain it's clean.
Clean the paint passage with the cleaning brush

That's everything between the color stem...

To the stem the nozzle screws into
Clean the color stem with the cleaning brush or a cotton swab
Clean the front of the airbrush body. Pay special attention to the place where the nozzle sits.
Clean any bottles

Glass jars can be soaked and scrubbed or just scrubbed. Your choice.
Plastic bottles shouldn't be soaked. Scrub them instead.

Solvent resistant bottles are just that, resistant. They will eventually melt from contact with solvent based paints, but melting can be months to years in the process.
Bottle tops (cap sets)

Scrub with brushes. Use extra long pipe cleaning brushes or pipe cleaners to get into the long paint tube. If you decide to go with pipe cleaners get the expensive ones--they don't shed their fibers as much.

NOTE: Clean everything very thoroughly! I know you're getting tired of me saying it. But I harp on it because it really IS that important!

Place the nozzle onto the airbrush body.
Screw the head cap over the nozzle onto the airbrush body.
Lightly tighten the head cap with the wrench, no more than a quarter turn.
Screw the nozzle cap onto the head cap
Screw the needle cap onto the nozzle cap
Gently insert the needle. It should come to a firm stop with the needle tip poking out of the front.

Do not force it in.
Twist the needle counter-clockwise a quarter turn
Screw the needle chucking nut, big end first, onto the needle chucking guide
Screw the handle onto the back of the airbrush body