Iwata Hi-Line HP-C Plus

Information

Necessity for fine details.
Has experience airbrushing.
Beginners learn on the HP-C Plus quite often.

Next to the Eclipse CS the HP-C Plus is one of the best airbrushes to learn on.
The big cup on the HP-C Plus is excellent for loading up and spraying away. However, it's still a gravity feed airbrush. That means it can function on a single drop of paint.

Big Cup

The big cup is perfect for people who know they'll need to cover some ground, but still want to know they only have to load it up with a drop of paint to make it work.
Lid for the Cup

You might think this is silly. But other airbrushes don't have lids, and lids become indispensable if you wildly flail about when you paint, like I do. Of course, I can be a little weird so your mileage may vary.
Cut-away, pre-set handle

The cut away lets you clean out your airbrush quicker. The preset let's you limit the amount of trigger pull you can have. The preset is quite useful when you have to do the same stroke over and over and over and over.
Funnel Cup

This is actually an update over the older HP-C airbrushes. They had a paint trough underneath the cup. That trough was seriously annoying to clean out, though on the upside if the cup weld ever broke you had a large HP-A to spray with.
Teflon Needle Packing Set

This has an upside and a down side. On the upside Teflon doesn't melt in solvents. Basically the o-ring lasts and lasts even when you spray automotive urethanes. On the downside though, Teflon doesn't compress very well. This means that you don't have a lot of control over how much "grip" the airbrush exerts on the needle as it passes through this o-ring. Most people don't notice or care, but you can switch over to the older "solvent-resistant" o-rings if you'd like.

Workhorse Airbrush

If you look at the HP-C Plus as an updated HP-C then it's basically a great workhorse airbrush. It'll do most things really well and even let you spray most of your details without having to switch airbrushes.
Beginner's Airbrush

In the art world this is one of the best airbrushes to learn on. It's forgiving of paint consistency mistakes but still forces you to learn about paint consistency. Most artists will never need to move beyond it. They don't need the extra detail a Custom Micron provides.

These Cleaning Guides links are specifically the ones you need to clean this particular airbrush.

No Place to Set it Down

This is an unfortunate oversight. Somebody needed to include a kickstand! I know many airbrush compressors come with an airbrush holder and there are many manufacturers that make holders of some kind. In fact, you can even make your own with some creative ingenuity.
Tip Dry

Unfortunately EVERYBODY has to deal with tip dry if they use airbrushes. Though one of my favorite methods to eliminate tip dry is to use a slow reducer (the paint won't dry as quickly and therefore won't stick to needle as much. Otherwise you'll need to check out the How to Remove Tip Dry methods in the cleaning guide section.
Bent Needles

If you take the needle cap off to try and get finer details you WILL bend your needle tip at some point. I usually suggest a Crown Cap. Then you can still get the detail but your needle (and possibly the person you're working on) stays safe.

Try this guide if you end up bending your needle and would like to try repairing it yourself.
Clogs

Clean it! Paint dislikes being sprayed and will do it's best to punish you for your outrageous actions! But don't worry, the cleaning guides will help you through these predicaments.
Breaking the Nozzle Threads Off Inside the Airbrush

You are far stronger than the nozzle. Be gentle when twist it in and out!

Try going through these instructions to remove the broken threads if you get careless and break it anyways.