The Iwata Custom Micron CM-B
|Suggested Retail Price:
|Paint feed System:
||< 60 microns
to ~1 inch
||1/16 oz (1.8 ml)
||< 0.2 cfm
||< 100 psi
|Standard Tip Size:
|Optional Tip Size:
- Desire or necessity for incredibly fine detail
- Prior airbrush experience required.
Actively discourage beginners from purchasing Custom Micron airbrushes.
- Requires experience thinning and straining paint to reach
the appropriate sprayable paint consistency.
Custom Micorns only spray thin, non-viscous liquids.
Otherwise they clog without hesitation.
- I usually fit someone to a CM-C or CM-C+ before a CM-B
unless they specifically want the smaller tip or cup size.
- External Micro Air Control Valve
- Pistol Grip Moisture Filter
- Quick Disconnect
- Table Top Cleaning Station
- Crown Cap
- Pre-set Handle
- Matched Head System
- Custom Microns aren't for everyone. They're
professional tools for masters, and aspiring masters.
- They get finicky and clog a lot if your paint consistency
- Custom Microns are geared specifically toward fine details.
A good workhorse airbrush will take you 93-97% of the way to incredible
detail. The Custom Micron takes you the last 3-7%.
- They suck at anything other than fine details.
Yes, they create spatter effects and spray a 1
inch wide spray pattern however less expensive options are available to
do these effects.
- The smaller 1/16 oz cup is nice for people with big
- If you're not experienced at paint mixing then buy
airbrush-ready paint. You'll still need to strain and thin
paint but it won't be nearly as bad, and as frustrating as it could've
If you're using spray equipment and the needle is long and pointy, you
have tip dry. A slow reducer can help depending on the type
paint you spray. Otherwise, get good at knowing how to
recognize and remove tip dry
Custom Microns clog more than most airbrushes. It can seem
they clog when you simply bring chunky paint near them.
nozzles and low air pressure do that to you.
Custom Microns deal with the weak nozzle better than most airbrushes
The head system can be removed to clean out the inside of the
nozzle without removing the nozzle itself.
When the nozzle or nozzle cap dies the whole head system
must be replaced to keep performance.
Matched head systems give great performance, the downside is that when
they die you
have to replace the whole head system. An added bonus to
replacing the whole head is that you almost
completely refurbish your airbrush to factory settings--well,
everything except the trigger mechanism. You'll have to
clean and lube the air piston to make that feel like new.
It's common, and it's your fault. The good news is
that you might try repairing the needle yourself. The bad
that you should probably still order that replacement nozzle,
especially if you've never tried repairing a needle before.
No teflon o-rings
On some levels this is good. Rubber or neoprene o-rings
compress much, much better and are far more adjustable than
teflon, which doesn't really compress at all. If you
water or alcohol based paint the lack of teflon isn't an issue.
if you use other, harsher paints their reducers eat non-teflon
a light snack if you're not careful--well, the airbrush is setup in a
manner that keeps the o-rings intact for extended use and the o-rings
are technically solvent-resistant. But they will eventually
away and need to be replaced.